Beckford’s Tower is an icon of Bath. From the west of the city, it stands out like a beacon on the Lansdown skyline, its newly restored golden crown glinting in the sunlight and attracting visitors from miles around.
Back at the start of the summer this incredible venue was reopened following a £3.9 million refurbishment which included essential repairs to encompass reimagining the museum and creating a new interpretation, installing renewable energy sources and the excavation of a hidden grotto, which visitors can now experience for the first time ever.
Having visited a few times before the work was carried out, we were keen to see what the changes would look like – and we were mightily impressed! On the Sunday morning that we visited, there was already a queue formed to take the 154 spiral steps up to the top of the tower. The friendly team at Beckford’s explained that visits up the tower are limited to six people at a time simply due to the narrowness of the steps and limited space at the top.
No problem at all, we were happy to check out the displays in the lower room first and enjoy a walk to the recently discovered grotto, before taking on the grand ascent.
The main room at Beckford’s Tower explores the life and family of William Beckford, collector and, horribly, slave trader, a terrible fact that strongly influenced the new style of the exhibition.
As Dr Amy Frost, Senior Curator at Bath Preservation Trust, explained, “William Beckford’s obsession with collecting objects and building towers was funded by his involvement in the transatlantic slave trade. This means that the creation of Beckford’s Tower and the collection within it was all underpinned by the exploitation and suffering of thousands of enslaved people.
“It has been vital that we work with others to tell this story as openly and accurately as possible. The end of this project is actually the start of a future programme of changing displays and new research at the museum, ensuring that even more previously untold stories are discovered, and voices that have previously been silenced are heard.”
One of the other new aspects of the tower is the chance to visit the newly excavated and previously hidden grotto, now open to visitors for the first time. Originally the grotto was part of a tunnel that allowed William Beckford to walk from his home in Lansdown Crescent to the tower out of sight of the common populace. The grotto is at the end of a new path that meanders alongside the wonderful evocative and overgrown graveyard, from which visitors can enjoy a gorgeous view over to the South of the city.
Back inside, it was finally our turn to take on the spiral steps up to the top of the tower. Part way up is a new feature, the chance to climb outside and see the tower’s new solar panels, used to power the building’s lighting and electricity, including the tower floodlights.
A few more steps up and you’re at the peak, in a surprisingly tight space that even so offers wonderful views across Bath. We all agreed this would be a great spot to relax with a book or count stars on a clear night, while also keeping an eye on the cricket pitch next door. As it was, we used the binoculars on offer to find our house and other favourite Bath spots.
There’s no escaping the terribly human suffering and exploitation that allowed the building of Beckford’s Tower, and it’s much to the current owner’s credit that the new exhibition puts this front and centre. Alongside this, they’re done a fantastic job adding to the story and appeal of one of Bath’s best known attractions.